Do-it-yourself ax handle - step-by-step instructions and photos

How to select and prepare wood?

Many jobs are impossible without a well-sharpened and strong axe. This tool is often needed in both household and larger-scale work. In retail outlets you can find many different models of such tools, because there are quite a lot of types of axes themselves. It is possible to choose the ideal option in accordance with any requirements.

But there are also cases when the consumer could not find a suitable tool for himself. Many people in such situations find a simple way out - they make an ax themselves. For a tool to be of high quality, reliable and durable, it must consist of good elements. So, to create an ax handle, it is very important to choose the right material.

Not every type of wood is suitable for creating this ax part. It is believed that a true master will go around the entire forest before he finds the very tree from which he can make an axe. In most cases, this element of the ax is constructed from the root section of a birch tree, and even better, if you use the growths that are present on its trunk. These parts are distinguished by a very dense and curled structure.

Birch is not the only tree that can make a good ax handle. Instead, it is permissible to refer to trees such as oak, maple, acacia, ash and other deciduous trees that are classified as hardwoods. According to experienced craftsmen, beech, oak, larch, walnut and elm produce the most reliable, comfortable and durable high-quality handles. But it’s not enough to find the ideal material for making an axe. It is still necessary to properly prepare it for the upcoming work.

The workpieces must be thoroughly dried. This is done only under natural conditions, and it often takes a lot of time - on average 3-4 years, and better yet longer (5 years will be enough). Wood should be dried exclusively in a dark and dry place with good ventilation. Precipitation, dampness and water should not penetrate into the space where natural material will be prepared. Otherwise, such drying simply won’t do any good, and you won’t be able to make a good axe.

What wood is suitable for an ax handle?

In general, hardwood is most suitable for making an ax handle. Hardwoods, but of course not all of them. Ax handles are usually made from the following species: ash, maple, birch, beech, oak. Let's talk about the nuances of each breed, in terms of its use for an ax handle

Beech wood is easy to work with. But despite this, it is very hard and durable. But beech wood has a negative point in using it as an axe. This is because beech wood tends to absorb moisture strongly. And this has a very negative effect on the wear resistance of the tool.

An oak ax handle is a standard of reliability and strength - oak wood is very resistant to stress. It is highly resistant to pests, moisture and fungi. What cannot be ignored. But there is a fly in the ointment here too - the weight of oak wood.

Oak wood ax handle

Oak wood is heavy and hard, which in general, when working with an ax, has a strong impact on the hand.

We can say that ash wood almost perfectly meets the requirements for an ax handle. Ash has high hardness, density and strength.

Ash wood ax handle

The high density of ash wood makes it very resistant to high impact loads. Which is very important for an ax handle, which experiences enormous loads when working with an axe.

And despite its excellent characteristics, ash can be found in any hardware store or market. Moreover, the cost of ash wood is not the highest, something in the middle price category

Birch is often used to make ax handles. Most often, on the shelves of shops and markets you can see axes with birch handles. But this is not the best option for an axe.

The popularity of birch handles is based on the low cost of wood and the ease of processing birch.

Birch wood ax handle

Birch is susceptible to rotting, and its hardness is low. Low hardness becomes higher with proper processing. Proper processing of such material improves the properties of wood. And makes it quite suitable for small household hatchets.

Ax handles are often made from maple wood. Maple is resilient and durable. And also easy to process. Among other things, maple wood has a beautiful color and soft structure.

This unusual name hides an American walnut that grows in Canadian forests. For the manufacture of an ax handle, this is the best option, successfully combining strength, elasticity and durability. However, only American and Canadian loggers can truly appreciate these benefits.

Important nuances

The strength and durability of the ax is determined by the resistance of the wood to dynamic shock loads. The reasons for premature breakage of the handle look like this:

the use of soft wood reduces the service life of the ax by almost 2 times;
poor drying - the blade landing site begins to become soaked;
low density of the ax head - the blade walks along the surface, eventually breaking the handle.

It should be clarified that a properly made handle can last for several years without requiring repairs.

What kind of wood should the ax handle be made from?

Axes don't count.

Originally posted by svensk67: Siberian gentlemen, how are things with your larch? On which Venice still stands? Piles... Maybe they make axes out of it?

(judiciously). We have plenty of larch. Only this tree is fragile and the axes are made from all sorts of p@doras, who will simply stick a branch into a fool, chop and chop and insert the next one.

Reasonably). We have plenty of larch. Only this tree is fragile and the axes are made from all sorts of p@doras, who will simply stick a branch into a fool, chop and chop and insert the next one.

We bring birch trees from the mainland, larch is fragile

Butchers loved birch axes - wet and sweaty hands almost did not slide over them. Ax handles made of ash were preferred by carpenters, because on the contrary, the hand glides easily on such an ax handle, making it more convenient to intercept.

In Finland, they say, traditional axes are made of orange plastic.

Originally posted by Llandaff: In Finland, they say traditional axes are made of orange plastic.

Canadian lumberjacks also went to great lengths...

Ax Deer from Vyacha. The ax was made from a thick elm branch and treated with the “Luchinsky” compound. I'm happy with 5 years of use. The ax handle is reinforced with nylon thread and epoxy. And our geologists preferred the butt of mountain ash for their hammers. Considering the power of the impact (when selecting volcanic rock) it is a very strong thing...

Originally posted by svensk67: No, it’s quite possible. I have been working with wood since I was 12 years old. And as for rosin, that’s right.

I have two juniper pipes, made by myself. It's okay, they're smoking. The main thing is to properly process the wood and “smoke” the pipe.

Aspen. Preferably felled in the spring during sap flow, because Aspen sap has the property of polymerizing. Combines non-sharpness, viscosity and lightness. Also very good for hammer handles.

All my friends make their own camping ax handles from ash, which they harvest themselves. Here are photos of their axes, both axes have been in use for about 5 years. The axes themselves were converted from Soviet carpenter's axes according to the method from the article “What an ax should be” by A.M. Radula.

I also like Finnish plastic wood.

Not glamorous by any means, but practical. 2Black Dog. How do you like the Deer in the field? It didn’t take root with me - it’s thin, bites deep when hit and wedges. I took it a couple of times, but now it’s been sitting idle in the collection for seven years.

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We mainly use birch trees.

2 svensk67: I don’t know how it is in Llaplania, but in the Vladimir and Ivanovo regions you can also find junipers 10-15 cm thick. And they are certainly not two thousand years old. Much, much younger. We sometimes light fires there exclusively with dead juniper wood. and on the topic - Aspen has been used for a long time. Durable, light, viscous, resistant to woodworms and rot. Very well suited for handles of axes, hammers, handles of various types of agricultural tools. And for other needs too. Especially cut down in the spring during sap flow. because Aspen sap has the ability to polymerize and further improve the already excellent properties of wood.

I have always been a fan of natural materials, two years ago I bought an ax in Auchan with a plastic handle, rubberized in the grip area (I bought more in a hurry - I had to travel beyond the Moscow Ring Road, beyond the Ural Mountains and a little further), the device showed itself more than worthy, no play, no other “shoals of birch wood” were identified. I recommend!

Wood harvesting begins in autumn

Dry in a dark place. Before use, wood must be stored for about one year, or better yet, five.

It is not advisable to use felled wood as it will dry out over time and will not stay in the eye.

Service life of the ax

The durability of a properly made ax is determined by the resistance of the wood to impact and compression. The part of the ax located in the eye experiences very significant loads; over time, it can become wrinkled and the ax head becomes loose. The service life is determined by the type of wood (the harder the better), drying (a poorly dried ax handle will “get wet” very quickly), and the density of the attachment: precise fitting and tight attachment (by blows or pressing) significantly increase durability. Properly made axes can work under heavy loads for years without requiring repairs. If a properly made and mounted ax handle becomes loose, it can be repaired. In the case of a direct attachment (when the ax is placed on top of the tapering end of the ax handle and then wedged), the ax should be set back and an additional wedge made of hardwood should be hammered in. It is also possible to use a flat or round metal wedge. When the ax is mounted in reverse (the ax handle is passed through a cone-shaped eyelet from top to bottom), loosening does not occur, since during operation the loads are directed towards the expanding end of the ax handle and the ax is only fitted more tightly.

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Making an ax

There are various methods in the production of pens. The choice is influenced by:

skills;
tool;
material;
size;
form.

The handle of sledgehammers and cleavers looks like a straight stick, while in other varieties it has a curved shape.

Increased wear resistance is influenced by:

rock strength;
correct placement of fibers.

The fibers are located along the handle. The oblique texture contributes to breakage during operation and drying out.

Drawing with dimensions of the axe.

Manufacturing methods

For an ordinary person, the most common use of an ax is when working in a summer cottage. Here, along with the work inherent in such a tool, not very qualified workers are used for various jobs. Therefore, axes, as a rule, do not withstand prolonged use, and they have to be changed quite often. The most suitable material for the handle is birch. It is durable, relatively light and smooth material to work with. For zealous owners, it will be useful to place birch bars to dry. Birch should be dried for a long time, at least 3-5 years, and always out of exposure to sunlight. To make a good ax handle, you will need well-dried birch. Otherwise, it will dry out in the ax itself, the handle will begin to dangle, which can lead to significant inconvenience in work and injury.

There are several different ways to make an ax handle correctly. But all of them can be divided depending on technological equipment:

Using electric woodworking mechanisms (circular saw, planer, various types of sanding).
Manually from ready-made boards using a plane, rasp, and so on.
Handmade from birch logs.
With a minimum of tools.

Tools and materials

Before starting work, you need to prepare parts and equipment for making an ax at home or in an industrial environment. The main materials are wood for the handle and the chopping head. In addition to these, you may need:

antiseptics that will protect the ax handle from rotting;
twine with a diameter of 5-8 mm;
medium and fine grit sandpaper;
cutting and polishing wheels for an angle grinder;
abrasive materials.

The surface of the handle can be varnished. It will protect the material from water ingress and swelling.

To make a wooden ax with your own hands, you will need hand or mechanical plumbing and carpentry tools. You should prepare:

Grinder with abrasive wheels. It is shaped like a metal hatchet head.
Jigsaw with wood saw.
Sanding machine or grinder.
Set of files, rasps.
Manual milling machine.

Making an ax handle with your own hands

You should not neglect the ax handle, since it is this that affects the comfort of work. The holder must be balanced, comfortable, well polished and with the correct geometry so as not to injure the worker’s hands.

The first step is to choose the right wood for the ax handle. The first and simplest option is pine. It is very easy to sharpen and polish, but is unreliable due to its high fragility. You can use birch - the best option and very affordable wood that is quite easy to find. Maple and ash are ideal, but making a handle from such wood is very difficult in some latitudes.

The size of the ax can be at your discretion; a handle with a length of 50 to 70 centimeters (universal size) for the cleaver is recommended. A hiking option is 40 centimeters, but cutting down trees and chopping firewood is quite difficult with it. If working with an ax only involves splitting logs, then the handle can be increased to 120 centimeters - excellent impact power and productivity, but you lose in comfort of use. Next, let's look at step-by-step instructions for making an ax handle.

STEP 1: select a wooden blank. The log should be 20 centimeters longer, and its diameter should be at least 12 cm. Without knots, rotten areas, deformations and other defects that may be present on the tree.

STEP 2: drying the wood. First you need to clear all the bark and split the lump in the middle. It is advisable to withstand for a couple of months at +22-25 degrees and 15% humidity. You should not heat it or keep it damp - this will only worsen the properties of the wood after drying, and it may become deformed.

STEP 3: shape the ax handle. First, you can remove all excess with a hatchet or a large knife, and all “jewelry work” is done using a chisel and a small hammer. If this is your first hand-made pen and you don’t yet know how to make an ax, then the process will take several hours, you need to check the drawings. A more experienced person will be able to cut an ax handle by eye in 20-30 minutes. You should end up with a handle something like this:

STEP 4: Now you need to attach the ax handle and secure it. You can use gauze and epoxy resin - a proven option. After 2-3 days the instrument is completely ready for use. To be sure, after mounting the ax you can hammer in a wedge - this will be more reliable.

STEP 5: sanding and varnishing. The ax handle must be properly treated with sandpaper and opened with anti-corrosion mixtures so that the wood is not damaged over time. Now the instrument will also be beautiful!

Now all you have to do is find out what do-it-yourself sharpening is. You need to sharpen the ax handle on a machine or do it manually and you can go test the tool. True connoisseurs can also make a leather case with their own hands. A piece of leather 30 by 30 centimeters, an awl and nylon threads is all you need. Now the tool will look respectable and you won’t be ashamed to give it as a gift!

You can find out more about how to make a taiga ax with your own hands here:

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Types of axes

There are several types of axes, and each has its own purpose. Professionals distinguish this tool by the width of the butt, which can be wide, medium and narrow. At the same time, some use it for universal work, others for cutting wood, and some varieties are used for neat carpentry work.

Main types of axes:

cleavers;
for felling forests;
construction;
tourist.

Within each of these groups, there are various tool options designed for narrow-profile or other special work.

A striking example of this is a fire axe. Its design is no different from others, but opposite the blade it has a pointed pickaxe. With its help, you can hook heavy objects, secure yourself on the roof, or break door locks.

A little about sizes and shapes

Each master made an ax with his own hands, focusing on his height and specific application. It is no secret that a tool designed for chopping wood will be somewhat different from a similar product intended for cutting down trees. In this case, a small carpenter's hatchet for small carpentry work will be the exact opposite of the two categories listed above.

Despite this, a professional ax with a wooden handle always consists of three main parts:

working part made of metal with a sharpened front part;
ax handle - a handle made of wood;
wedge - a spacer element that connects parts of a structure together.

When making it yourself, special attention is paid to the metal part, otherwise the tool simply will not cope with its main function. Here, not only the shape and material are taken into account, but also the aspect ratio and sharpening angle.

Modern axes are usually made from medium-alloy tool steel, which has been heat-treated and hardened.

The blade shape is selected depending on the application. For example, products designed for arborists are often used for cutting down tree trunks and removing large limbs. This kind of work requires a great depth of penetration, so the shape of the ax should be wedge-shaped. Cleavers that are used for chopping wood have a similar shape, but have thicker “cheeks” and a sharper sharpening angle.

The length and size of the ax directly depend on the impact loads. If significant impact force is required, the handle is made longer to provide a larger swing. Here the dimensions are 700-900 mm. The length of the handles of log axes (carpentry tools) usually does not exceed 500 mm; a good cleaver is attached to a shaft of about 800 mm.

The shape of the ax should provide a comfortable grip, so the middle part is always made curved, the seat and shank have thickenings. The blade angle usually varies between 70-90 degrees.

Despite this, a professional ax with a wooden handle always consists of three main parts:

working part made of metal with a sharpened front part;
ax handle - a handle made of wood;
wedge - a spacer element that connects parts of a structure together.

Modern axes are usually made from medium-alloy tool steel, which has been heat-treated and hardened.

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The shape of the ax should provide a comfortable grip, so the middle part is always made curved, the seat and shank have thickenings. The blade angle usually varies between 70-90 degrees.

What kind of wood is used to make an ax handle?

For work that requires special impact force, you need an ax with the shape of an elongated ax as in the drawing. For clean, precise work that does not require great impact force, axes are made with a short ax shape. For logging axes, you need to use the correct ax handles with a length of 700 - 900 mm, for lopping axes 600 - 800 mm, but the ax handle for a splitting ax has dimensions of 750 - 930 mm. The shortest length is about 500 mm - they have axes for hewing.

The middle and gripping parts of the ax are given a slightly curved shape and their surface is carefully processed as shown in the drawing. The tail is made wider. The fastening part fits tightly to the hole in the butt. The angle of the attachment must correspond to the type of axe: for a lumberjack 86 - 88°, for a lopping ax 70 - 80°, for a splitting ax 80 - 90°.

The axis of the correct ax and the line of the blade are located in the same plane. After attaching the blade, the ax handle is wedged by driving two wedges.

The impact force applied when working with an ax also determines the shape of the ax itself. Thus, a logging ax, used for cutting trunks and cutting thick branches on large trees, must penetrate the wood as deeply as possible, not get stuck in it, produce large chips, i.e. it requires special impact force. In accordance with this, its wedge-shaped shape is convex as in the drawing, the line of the blade is curved.

Below are examples of modern axes.

A delimbing ax is used mainly for cutting branches and sometimes for cutting thin trees when sawing. When delimbing, less impact force is required, but a higher frequency of work is required, therefore the blade of the delimbing ax is long, as shown in the drawing.

Nowadays, few such axes are produced; all that I managed to find is given below.

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The cleaver is used for splitting - splitting wood, so its blade shape is short, wedge-shaped, heavy, with thick cheeks, with a sharpening angle of about 35 degrees.

Axes for riveting and similar work have a wide blade with one-sided sharpening as in the drawing below.

Technological production of an ax handle

First of all, the necessary blank is cut out on woodworking machines. All its dimensions (width, thickness and length) are made with a small margin for further adjustment.

The thickness and width are determined by the size of the ax's entrance hole, which is called the eye and is located at the bottom. It must be remembered that the upper outlet hole is much wider than the lower one, and they should not be confused when taking measurements.

For the convenience of further processing, it is advisable to plan the workpiece on a planing machine in order to make its cross-section close to a triangular shape with an acute angle at the bottom of the future ax handle. Using a cardboard template, a drawing of an ax of the chosen shape is applied to the workpiece. A template can be made by making a drawing according to the dimensions of an old broken tool, or you can find a suitable shape of an ax in specialized literature or on the Internet. It is most convenient to cut rounded areas using an electric jigsaw. Next, smooth out all the corners using a wide chisel and pre-grind the product. It is not worth processing it completely to working condition, because if it is directly connected to the metal part of the tool, when significant forces and impacts are applied, the wood may split, and all the final finishing work will be done in vain.

Mechanical grinding should be done on a flat grinding wheel. Using a regular stone sharpening disc is not effective. It is better to make a special disk, with the same hole in the center as the corresponding sharpening stone.

It is better to use the material for the circle from hard electrically insulating plastic, at least 5 mm thick. Sandpaper is glued onto it using PVA glue. You should know that you should only use waterproof paper. A simple one will quickly break. In addition, a circle covered with waterproof sandpaper can be washed to remove wood dust with hot water. Therefore, if such a circle is made from plywood, then washing it will be problematic. Plywood can become deformed when exposed to water.

On such a wheel it will be convenient to grind the smooth and convex parts of the axe, especially the part that is inserted inside the ax. This must be done very evenly so as not to weaken the thickness of the wooden part.

For sanding internal curves, it is good to have a vertical sander. You can also make equipment for it yourself. To do this, you will need to turn a wooden cylinder on a lathe with a through internal hole corresponding to the shaft of the engine being used, and paste it on the outside with waterproof sandpaper.

The finished cylinder should be tightly placed on the shaft of a vertically mounted engine. For grinding the ax itself, the diameter of the cylinder is not so important, but the thickness of the walls from the inner hole to the outer surface should be quite massive, at least 10-15 mm.

Ax making process

The little “secret” of a hand-made cleaver is that its center of gravity is shifted. A cleaver with a “secret” is an ax with a curved wooden stick neatly built into the blade. During chopping, this stick acts as a lever and helps split logs without much effort. Thanks to the shifted center of gravity, the force that the woodcutter puts into the blow increases several times. In order to make a device for chopping wood with your own hands, you will need:

hardwood for making a handle, preferably birch;
steel for making an ax handle (blade).
a long curved stick that is used to create a shifted center of gravity;
lathe for making wooden parts;
blade sharpening tool.

First, the handle is turned on a lathe; the master can adjust the length “to suit himself.” It is not recommended to make the handle too short, as it will be inconvenient to work. If the handle is too long, this will reduce the force put into the blow. The ideal option is to measure the length of the handle of a standard industrial ax and stick to this length (with minor errors in one direction or another, taking into account the physical build of the person who will be chopping wood). If the woodcutter has long arms, the handle may be slightly shorter than normal. And, conversely, for a person with short limbs it is better to lengthen it a little.

The second stage of work is manufacturing, sharpening and attaching the blade to the handle as securely as possible. Next, the center of gravity of the cleaver shifts; for this purpose, a long curved stick is carefully built into the blade. After this, the homemade cleaver is ready for use.

Before starting the process, you need to draw up drawings of the future cleaver. This will allow you to maintain optimal shape parameters, maintain proportions and maintain a balanced center of gravity. If the cleaver is made from an old axe, reflect it on paper while maintaining the dimensions, then apply the proposed additions on top of the image of the axe. The spring option is reflected on paper, taking into account the workpiece parameters - width, thickness and length. An important aspect of preparing to make a cleaver is drawing out the appropriate shape for the handle.

Incorrect selection of the appropriate parameters of the ax can worsen the chopping characteristics of the cleaver.

The design of a homemade cleaver

The entire structure of the hand-made cleaver is made of 10-12 mm reinforcement rods. The reinforcement was cut into small pieces and then welded into a frame.

Assessing the design solution of this invention, it can be noted that the chosen material is correct - the reinforcement. After all, someone could make a pipe out of a profile, for example?

A profile pipe for this option is a rather bad choice, since the splitting ax takes on a fairly large load, and the welding seams of profile pipes cannot cope with such a load.

Let's now move on from assessing the material to assessing the fidelity of the frame design. The frame is planned quite competently and thoughtfully, this solution allows you to distribute the load during an impact in the right way.

The only thing I would add to this homemade column design is another blade diagonally, so that I can get not two logs at a time, but all four, in one action.

From an ax

A cleaver made from an old ax is the simplest version of a piercing tool. This model can be made in several ways. Let's look at them in order from simple to complex. If you plan to split soft wood in the form of small-diameter blocks, modification of the ax is kept to a minimum. It is enough to change the sharpening angle - make it more blunt. The ax will not stick in, but will “pull” the block apart.

To cut harder wood, it is necessary to increase the weight of the iron part of the splitting axe. Weld special “ears” - metal thickenings - to its sides. They are designed to increase mass and sliding effect at the moment of impact. Such welding can be made from reinforcement, springs or from any metal blank. The reinforcement is welded in two sections on each side. It is important to boil them well together and cook them with the base. After joining, grind them to narrow. The result is the effect of two wedges on the sides of the ax. In order to increase mass and impact force, it is recommended to use reinforcement with a diameter of 15 mm and above.

The spring is welded in a similar way. In some cases, it needs to be shaped like an ax so that the protruding edges do not interfere with chopping. Finally, you need to carry out a cone sharpening, similar to that used for fittings. In both cases, the side welds must extend from the butt to the edge of the blade. Particularly thorough welding is done in the area of the blade. During sharpening, the edge and welds should merge into one whole blade.

It is permissible to use a combined version of an ax and a cleaver. In this case, the sharper sharpening of the ax and the weight of the cleaver are preserved. At the moment the metal comes into contact with the wood, it will stick into it, and the side “ears” will create the effect of moving the block apart to the sides. This splitting ax allows you to chop and split firewood without changing tools.

From a spring

Modifying a splitting cleaver from a spring is a more labor-intensive manufacturing option. It will take more time, tools and material. The basis is a spring leaf from a heavy-duty vehicle. The characteristics of this particular spring are optimal. To form the main web, you will need a section of spring equal to two longitudinal lengths of the future splitter with the addition of its width. The workpiece must be bent in the shape of the letter “P”.

The spring metal has increased strength and elasticity. It can only be bent into a given shape by heating it to extremely high temperatures close to the melting point. You will need to make a mini-oven - heating will be carried out in it. An option for quickly assembling such a furnace involves the use of several refractory bricks. They must be laid in such a way as to form a cube with empty space at the core. It should be enough to completely place the workpiece in it. Fire bricks are needed to prevent heat loss when heated.

Heating can be done using a gas burner or coal. In both cases, additional oxygen will be needed. It is supplied by a compressor under pressure or using improvised bellows: a diagram of their assembly is shown in Figure 1. The workpiece will become red-hot. Remove it with special pliers. Place on an anvil or improvised blacksmith's table. Using a heavy hammer, bend the spring into a “P” shape. If bending could not be carried out before the metal cooled, it must be heated again.

This procedure is best done together. One person holds the workpiece firmly on the anvil with both hands, the second strikes with a hammer. After giving the desired shape, let the metal cool slowly - this way it will not harden and will be malleable during further processing. Another spring section is being prepared. Its length is equal to the distance from the butt to the blade. It is inserted into the middle of the previous workpiece, which has a “U” shape. The edges of the “P-blank” are pressed against the spring section with hammer blows. The result should be a “three-layer” cleaver. The layers are welded together and ground with a grinder and a grinding disc. The final shape of this cleaver should have streamlined features without protrusions that would prevent the penetration of metal into the wood.

A spring splitter can be easily modified into a tool of the same name with a shifted center of gravity. This model is called the “Finnish” cleaver. An additional thickening is welded on one side of the chopping element - only one “ear”. At the moment of impact, the displaced center of gravity causes the cleaver to rotate in a transverse plane. The effect of tearing the chock is enhanced - its two halves literally fly apart. The “Finnish” model is equipped with a hook-shaped protrusion in the butt area. It is designed to hold one of the parts of the log and prevent it from flying off to the side. This reduces the amount of physical movement of the woodcutter, making the entire process easier.

Making your own handle

First, a block of dried lump is made from a thickness of 3–5 mm greater than the width of the mounting hole. The reserve will allow you to later adjust the workpiece in case of mistaken removal of excess wood somewhere. If it is necessary to remove a thick layer, use an ax or a circular saw, then plan the surfaces with a plane, simultaneously leveling the planes.

On the resulting workpiece, mark the outline of the ax handle with the same margin of a few millimeters.

For convenience, the piece of wood is clamped and transverse cuts are made with a hacksaw in increments of 35–40 mm, not reaching the marking line by 2–4 mm.

Next, use an ax or chisel to knock down pieces of wood in small pieces, following the direction of the chip and not allowing it to go deeper than the drawn contour.

The shank is filed perpendicular to the axis of the ax handle to reduce the likelihood of chipping the wooden product.

Having completed the rough processing, mark the dimensions of the mounting hole.

Why find the center at the end of the workpiece and align the tip along it.

The final shapes are given to the workpiece by planing the convex surfaces with a plane, and the sunken parts are selected with a sharp knife.

Working carefully, remove thin shavings and periodically turn the part over to change the direction of the cut. As a result, you get an almost finished ax handle.

Now the upper end of the handle is chamfered for approach.

They try to lightly insert the handle into the eye, after which marks will remain on the wood, showing how much material needs to be removed.

Focusing on these marks, they continue to adjust the axe. Then another test attachment is made to identify areas of chipping.

Subsequent fine-tuning of the handle is carried out with sandpaper, smoothing out all irregularities and bringing the surfaces to a smooth state.

The tip is finally placed on the finished ax handle, ensuring an even fit. The protruding end of the piece of wood is cut off with a saw.

Place the cleaver vertically and hammer in a wedge, the length of which should not exceed the size of the butt to avoid cracking. If the wedge is not completely buried in the wood, the excess is cut off with a hacksaw.

The handle of a firewood cleaver is impregnated with a protective and decorative compound, leaving the surface rough. Do not use varnishes or oil paints that form a glossy finish.

Making your own ax

The tool manufacturing process can be divided into several stages. In order for the instrument to fit well in the hand, serve for a long time and not become dull, it is necessary to carefully and thoroughly perform each of them.

Ax head selection

How long the ax blade will work without sharpening depends on what steel the cutting part of the ax blade is made of. Good tools are made from high carbon steel, which has optimal hardness and toughness.

In the Soviet Union, steel grades U7A, U8, U8A, and U8GA were used to produce axes. The steel grade was stamped on the side of the blade.

To check the head for integrity before purchasing, you can simply hit it with a metal object. A long, ringing sound indicates high-quality hardening of the blade and the absence of internal cavities and cracks in the steel. The hardness of the blade is determined by quietly scratching it with a file. On high-quality hard steel, the needle file leaves small scratches; on soft steel, a notch immediately forms.

When purchasing an ax head, you need to pay attention to the following:

the blade must be of the correct shape, without shells or cracks;
the eye should taper into a small cone;
the butt end must be perpendicular to the blade;
The walls of the butt should not be too thick.

READ Making a boat out of plywood with your own hands

On a note! High-quality instruments can be purchased for relatively little money at so-called “flea markets.” They often sell old instruments pulled out of grandfather's closets. By purchasing an old tool and making an ax handle, you can get a high-quality tool for little money.

Making an ax

To ensure that the tool fits well in the hand and is comfortable to work with, carpenters prefer to make an ax handle with their own hands. To make an ax you will need the following tools:

wood hacksaw;
square, pencil, tape measure;
small hatchet;
hacksaw for metal;
blunt knife;
skins of different grain sizes.

Large tool stores sell already made axes. The easiest way is to buy a ready-made pen and create a tool, but a factory product rarely “fits in your hand.” To make your own ax handle, hardwoods are used:

Trees are harvested at the end of autumn, when sap flow stops and the tree becomes dense and dry. A piece of the required length is sawn off from the trunk, split along the fibers and laid to dry. Dry the workpieces in a dry, dark, ventilated place for 3-4 years.

On a note! During drying, wooden blocks can bend, so it is advisable to have a supply of blanks for work.

Before work, they find out the dimensions of the future ax and make a drawing. The length of the ax depends on the length of the master’s hands, the weight and purpose of the tool:

for light carpenter's axes (800-1000 g), the handle length is 40-60 cm;
for heavy two-handed axes (1000-1500 g) – 60-70 cm;
for light cleavers, the length of the handle is 40-45 cm, for heavy ones - 60-80 cm.

You can download a sketch of the drawing from the Internet or take an existing ax and adapt its dimensions to your hand. Several options for drawings of ax handles are shown in the photo below.

Operating procedure:

the workpiece is trimmed with an ax, making a rectangular block;
The contours of the future ax handle are drawn on the plane of the block with a marker. The length of the workpiece should be 5-7 cm longer than the axe. The allowance is necessary for the correct attachment of the ax;
the block is hewn along the contour. Rough processing of wood is carried out with an axe, finishing with a plane or a jamb knife;
the final polishing of the homemade ax handle is carried out with fine-grained sandpaper;
After grinding the ax handle, it is impregnated with linseed oil or natural drying oil to prevent rotting. The liquid is brought to a boil and rubbed into the ax handle. To make a homemade instrument stand out better against the background of grass, a bright acid-colored dye is added to the oil. After drying, the process is repeated until the oil is absorbed into the wood.

Placing an ax on an ax handle

Removal of excess wood from the upper end of the ax handle is carried out carefully, constantly applying the butt of the ax to the workpiece. After the eye is pressed ½ of the way onto the ax handle by hand, planing is stopped. Craftsmen have developed several ways to securely attach an ax head to a handle.

A wedge is used for mounting. It is carved from hardwood. Operating procedure:

the butt of the head is applied to the top of the ax handle and a mark is made;
the ax handle is clamped in a vice. In its upper part, along the fibers, a cut is made with a hacksaw for metal to a depth equal to half the distance to the mark;
A wedge is cut out of hardwood (birch, oak). The thickness of the wedge is 0.5-1 cm, the width is equal to the width of the ax handle, the length is equal to the depth of the cut;
The ax handle is installed vertically, and the ax blade is placed on top of it;
the wedge is moistened with PVA glue and hammered into the slot on the butt with a mallet;
The part of the wedge that does not fit into the slot is cut off.

On a note! Each master wedges his tool in his own way. Some people make two diagonal cuts for two wedges. There is an option for fixing the head with five wedges. To do this, one longitudinal and two transverse cuts are made in the end part of the ax. First, a regular large wide wedge is driven in, then four narrow ones are driven perpendicular to it.

For installation you need gauze or thin calico. Operating procedure:

the upper part of the butt is trimmed until the head begins to fit 2/3 onto the ax handle;
the eyelet is degreased from the inside, wiping with a solvent;
Epoxy glue is applied to the upper part of the butt, wrapped with gauze or a calico rag, and another layer of glue is applied on top;
the ax head is placed on the ax handle. In order for the head to finally settle, it is pressed down on top with a mallet;
The epoxy resin will dry within a day. The remaining fabric and resin are cut off with a knife.

How to chop wood, choose a cleaver and work according to the rules

Procuring firewood, splitting it and storing it is a labor-intensive process. To make this task easier, you need to use a good tool - a splitting axe, work according to the rules, or even mechanize your work. How to chop wood quickly, with the least effort - a few recommendations...

How to choose a suitable cleaver

A cleaver for chopping wood is a type of ax - a heavy and blunt sledgehammer ax with a long ax handle. The main thing when splitting a log is the impact force, the more, the better. The second condition for successful preparation of firewood is the creation of bursting forces in the log, which causes it to crack. An ordinary ax with a sharp, light, thin blade is not helpful here. The cleaver should be heavy and thick.

Experienced craftsmen usually choose a slightly longer ax handle, but for beginners and general home use it is still better to stick to the average standard.

The weight of the cleaver is recommended on average 2.2 – 2.5 kg. Experienced workers choose a slightly heavier one in order to create a stronger blow with practiced movements.

The ax handle is made of durable, but not hard wood. Birch is most often used. The softness of the handle material is very important. The material must dampen vibration; if it does this poorly, it will break itself and put unnecessary stress on the woodcutter’s hands.

Eared or wedge cleaver

Eared cleaver - with a sharp widening of the blade. By design, this leads to better cracking at the same impact force. The tool is used for exclusively dry wood, with reduced fiber cohesion. In a wet log it knows how to get stuck tightly.

A wedge-shaped cleaver can also chop wet wood, which is always more difficult to give in than dry wood.

An expert advises that you should not start chopping wet firewood. Let the logs lie for at least six months, or a year under a canopy. But frozen damp wood splits quite well - frozen water expands it from the inside. So you can just wait until winter...

How to chop wood correctly

It's a big mistake to try to use extra force to hit. You need to strike a lot, energetic diligence will quickly take away your strength with the help of a heavy cleaver. You need to make maximum use of the weight of the tool and the length of the handle - the moment of force is directly proportional to both.

A die (deck) is selected - the largest, dampest and heaviest, with a flat surface, not high. All splitting logs must stand confidently on it.
It is better to turn the block so that the knots are at the bottom.
To split, you need to hit along the visible knot, and not across it.
You need to try to get into a visible crack.
Wood logs that are too large first chip at the edges,

The expert recommends. You should not drive a splitting ax into large logs, lift them by weight on the ax, turn them over and hit them with the butt on the block - a lot of energy is wasted and creates dangers, it is better to chop at the edges.

What size of firewood should it be

To confidently enter winter, it is important that the results of collecting firewood are pleasing. The length of the logs should be 3/4 of the length of the firebox. Typically, wood sawers (harvestors) adhere to standards in this case. But the cutting is always individual. The average recommended size for a firebox is 10 cm. Thin firewood will burn out faster, but during this time it will release all the energy contained in its mass. Thick firewood will have a smaller burning area, burn longer, and are better suited for maintaining long-term combustion. In general, the workpiece should contain both large and small ones, and over time, the optimal size of firewood will be found for a specific firebox and heating system.

Security measures

The cleaver is heavy. You should not joke with this tool and work while drunk or tired.
It is important to maintain balance and not place your feet opposite the log being split; it is more convenient to spread them wide apart.
The block must be larger than the block being processed and should only stand steadily and not wobble.
Do not chop wood under trees or wires. Getting your ax caught on an obstacle or deviating from the trajectory can be too expensive...
Work in thick clothing, a hat, and glasses. The flight of chips is always unpredictable.
Before working, soak the splitting ax in water for several hours to allow the wood to swell. Do not use a faulty tool. The reliability of the attachment to the ax handle must always be monitored.

Chopping wood on video

Many harvesters have their own working techniques. It is advisable to split firewood with a minimum of effort. How to swing the ax handle in order to impart maximum energy to the blow, and at the same time make the best use of inertia. Let's look at the video at the personal experiences of people who often have to do this. Individual technique of working as a cleaver when chopping wood - the main thing is a high toss, without much effort.

Ordinary worn-out car tires will also help chop firewood. They can be used as a bandage, which makes work faster and easier.

How to split wood using mechanical devices. A selection of videos of mechanized firewood harvesting. Many presses, wood processing lines, home-made and in design bureaus, have been created that can chop firewood. Do they get it cheaper than a woodcutter... Watch a video about splitting wood with machines...

Impregnation of the ax handle and ax attachment

The upper part of the finished handle must be impregnated with a water-repellent composition. There are two options:

drying oil;
linseed oil;
ski resin.

Lubricate the wood with the chosen product and leave it until it dries. The treatment is repeated several more times until the fat is absorbed. Ski resin can penetrate deeper layers of the workpiece, but it is difficult to find in stores. Therefore, the first two options are often used.

Advice. You can add a bright dye to the impregnation agent. This way it will be difficult to lose the finished tool.

The ax attachment to the handle is done as follows:

The ax handle is clamped vertically in a vice.
On the wide upper part a wedge cut is made. The thickness of the wedge should be 5-10 cm, the length should be equal to the depth of the cut, and the width should be the size of the eye.
An ax is placed on the board upside down. Put on the ax handle and tap it on the board, regularly turning the product over.
After the ax handle has entered, a wedge is inserted into the cut and hammered in with a mallet.
They inspect the product well. If any shortcomings are noticed, they are corrected.
Remove any remaining seam allowance and give the final shape to the bottom of the handle. If any roughness is detected, go over it well with sandpaper again.

Watching videos and photographs will help you better understand the manufacturing technique. Making an ax handle with your own hands is more difficult than buying it ready-made. However, if you have the desire and some skills, it is quite possible to get a high-quality tool.

Making a form

Now we must give the desired shape, also according to the instructions:

On the blade we draw a contour according to this template. If there is no printer and there is no way to transfer the form, then you will have to work according to calculations. We retreat a centimeter from the top of the butt and put a dot. Now we draw a straight line from the selected place to the toe. We also step back a centimeter from the heel and make a mark. We apply any round object so that it simultaneously touches the selected point and the beard. Let's circle.
How to make a Viking ax straight? Is it not so easy to cut a circle by hand? We draw rays along the inner circle and cut along them. Now we cut out the circle.
All that remains is to polish it. We take special grinding attachments for the grinder and polishing pastes. Cheap ones include GOI or diamond pastes.

Hardening

A handmade ax must be hardened and this is best done using technology. The metal can be burned, causing it to become brittle due to carbon burnout. In general, everything consists of 3 stages:

Annealing. It is necessary to remove the tension from the steel, which is there in any case. This is easy to do - heat it to 760-800 degrees. The metal will be red-burgundy. Then we put it on a brick and let it cool. Next we remove the scale.
Hardening. A much more complex process. Initially, prepare 2 buckets of water. One contains water, the other contains oil. Anything will do, including working off. Heat the blade to 830 degrees and lower it 4 centimeters into the water for 5 seconds. Then completely lower it into the oil. Don't forget to make circular movements to knock down air bubbles.
Vacation. After hardening, the steel is hard but brittle, like glass. If it falls, it will simply break and need to be released. You need to heat it to 200 degrees and let it cool slowly with the oven for an hour. Even a regular oven will do.

By the way, you can harden an ax from rails or reinforcement in the same way.

Now the blade can be sharpened. There is no point in doing this in advance, since heat treatment will remove the cut anyway. Moreover, the blade can also lead.

Sharpening an ax is a simple matter. We take a grinder with an abrasive disc and try to maintain an angle of 20 degrees.

Making an ax handle

How to make an ax handle with your own hands? Very simple, you only need a block, a marker or pencil, a bow saw, chisels and sandpaper.

We take the sketch of the ax handle and apply it to the block. Cut out the handle along the contour. We remove sharp corners with chisels and round them with sandpaper.

Now you can decorate it. We apply the design to the ax and cut it out in any convenient way. This could be wood carving or engraving.

Adjusting the ax handle to the blade

There is only one thing left - to connect the handle and blade. How to place an ax on an ax handle correctly? According to the instructions:

The head of the ax is adjusted to the size of the hole in the blade. To do this you will need a saw and sandpaper. There is nothing complicated about this.
After fitting, if it fits correctly, it's time to wedge. If we make an ax from reinforcement, the hole is made at our own discretion.
We make cuts at the end of the planting. A simple option: 1 longitudinal cut and 1 wedge. But it's not that effective. The optimum is a cross. 1 longitudinal and 1 transverse cut. Wedges are cut into them according to size and driven in with a hammer. Professionals say that it is better to make wedges from the same wood.
We saw off the excess with a saw.

Making a storage case

A handmade ax case is needed for safe transportation. Moreover, you can’t do without it on a hike.

Detailed instructions for PVC bags in the video.

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Making a storage case

When you have made a taiga or other ax from an old one with your own hands, sew a bag for it. It is safe to transport and store tools in it. Make a case from durable material, taking into account the size of the ax. There are three simple options:

You can easily make a case for an ax with your own hands from a bag or an old briefcase. Draw contours with allowances on the material. Then sew the leather with a gypsy needle, to make it easier for you to make stitches, use an awl.
Make your own ax bag from old leather. Craftsmen advise making the case from thick leather. Draw the head on the inside with a pencil, and then cut out two identical parts and sew them together.

Making an ax handle with your own hands

A good result in work largely depends on how well the tool is made.

It is important that you feel comfortable using it. The hatchet handle must also be made correctly

It happens that the cutting edge becomes dull, the piercing part can fly off, etc. Craftsmen advise making an ax handle at home so that it fully meets your requirements. How to make an ax handle for an ax with your own hands? The diagrams are well illustrated in the photo. A reliable handle is suitable for making a Viking ax with your own hands from an old axe.

Sketch and template of an ax

To make an ax handle of the required size, you should first make a sketch and template from thick cardboard. The drawn handle is placed on cardboard and outlined with a pencil. This sample will help you cut a wooden handle according to the specified parameters, and working with such a tool will be convenient and easy. The sizes are determined depending on the person’s height and build.

The result itself depends on how accurately you take measurements and how carefully you prepare the template. You can make a taiga or any other ax out of an old one with your own hands.

Wood for an ax

A do-it-yourself wooden ax is made from hard and durable wood. The durable ax handle is resistant to impacts and other damage. Craftsmen recommend hardwood. The material is thoroughly dried, sometimes in a special drying chamber. The raw materials must be dry so that the ax does not change its shape in case of high humidity.