Oleo Mac-937 chainsaw - instructions and specifications 941, country of origin 936, Italian Emak-941C

How to remove and replace a sprocket from a chainsaw?

Many owners of gasoline chain saws, after a breakdown of the device, are concerned about the question of how to remove the chainsaw sprocket.

When replacing a sprocket, all work must be carried out carefully and with caution.

The design of the chainsaw device is a classic mechanism that is driven by an internal combustion engine. The design of the unit uses one of the simplest single-cylinder two-stroke carburetor engines that runs on gasoline. The simplicity of the engine design and the design of the chainsaw as a whole is the key to trouble-free and reliable operation of the device in difficult operating conditions. Operating a chainsaw does not require a large amount of knowledge and skills from the operator. The only condition for long-term and uninterrupted use of the device is regular technical inspection and maintenance of the device. While working with the device, it is necessary to regularly replace wearing parts. To reduce tool wear, you should monitor the quality of saw chain lubrication, its tension, the degree of chain wear and the degree of wear of the drive sprocket.

Before repairing a chainsaw, you should study its design. To replace one of the main structural elements of the device - the drive sprocket - it is necessary to study the mechanism of operation of the unit's clutch.

Specifications

The Oleo Mak 936 saw, weighing 4 kg, is characterized by compact body dimensions, which do not exclude convenient access to the adjustment and adjustment units and the filling necks of the fuel and oil tanks.

The model is equipped with a reliable and durable two-stroke air-cooled internal combustion engine with a displacement of 35.2 cm3 and a power of 2.2 hp. To operate the carburetor drive, a mixture of high-octane gasoline and special motor oil is used. Fuel enters the carburetor from an internal tank with a volume of 400 ml.

• Loaded parts and components of the power unit are made of special forged steel.
• The piston group has been improved by installing an additional compression ring.
• A quick start is guaranteed by a manual starter in combination with a primer pump and an electronic ignition system.

Unit clutch design

Chainsaws are units that are equipped with drive sprockets, which are a single complex with a clutch basket.

The clutch operates automatically, depending on the engine speed.

The units are equipped with a centrifugal clutch, which operates automatically, depending on the number of engine revolutions.

When the engine of the unit is running at idle or low speed, the elements of the clutch basket, which have friction linings, have a certain level of freedom in the radial direction. The presence of freedom of movement leads to the fact that, under the action of springs, the elements are attracted to the center of the rotation shaft and do not transmit rotational motion to the sprocket drum. When the engine speed of the device increases, the centrifugal force exceeds the force of the springs, which leads to displacement of elements with friction linings. These elements are pressed against the inner walls of the drum under the action of centrifugal force. Due to this contact, rotational motion is transmitted to the drum and sprocket, which drives the saw chain of the tool. The chainsaw sprocket can be located either outside the tool or under a special cover, which protects the mechanism from damage and the operator of the device from injury.

The main advantage of this type of clutch is that when the saw chain jams, elements with friction linings slip, which protects the internal combustion engine from serious damage.

Carburetor adjustment

It is necessary to adjust the carburetor of the Oleo Mak 936 chainsaw depending on the conditions in which the work will be carried out. Namely: climate, fuel quality, and oil type.

The carburetor is equipped with three adjusting screws: low, high and idle. Low and high speeds are regulated by the amount of fuel supplied. The idle speed can be adjusted by simply turning the side throttle.

Each instruction manual for this type of chainsaw contains a detailed explanation of how to properly set up the carburetor so that it lasts a long time and the saw works efficiently.

The main reasons for replacing the drive sprocket

A universal wrench is the main tool you will need when replacing a sprocket.

The most common reasons that force tool repairs associated with replacing the drive sprocket are:

• chain jamming due to defects occurring during operation of the unit;
• high sprocket wear as a result of long-term operation of the unit.

With regular use of the device, increased wear of the drive sprocket occurs as a result of increased loads placed on it during the process of sawing wood. There are two ways to operate the device:

• use of one saw chain;
• using several saw chains alternately.

When using the first method of operation, the chain is operated until it is completely worn out. This method has several disadvantages. The main one is the problem with monitoring wear during intensive operation of the unit.

When using two or more chains in the process, it is possible to achieve uniform wear of the chains and sprocket, which allows you to extend the period of operation of the device before repairs, which involve replacing the sprocket. In addition to sprocket wear, you should not forget about the bearing that is installed in the sprocket. This structural element operates at any engine speed. When replacing the sprocket, the bearing must also be replaced at the same time.

The coupling complete with sprocket must be replaced promptly. If repair work is not carried out in a timely manner during operation, the tool experiences increased vibration, which leads to increased wear of the bearings installed in the internal combustion engine on the crankshaft axle shafts. The maximum wear depth of sprocket teeth should not exceed 0.5 mm. The life of a sprocket is twice as long as one chain, so two chains should be used during operation. After the life of the chains has expired, the chains and drive sprocket should be replaced at the same time.

Repair cost for Oleo-Mac chainsaws and electric saws*

The final cost of the necessary repair of an Oleo-Mac chain saw or electric saw largely depends on the prices of spare parts and is agreed upon with the customer over the phone after a diagnosis has been carried out by a technician.

The cost of repairing Oleo-Mac chainsaws and electric saws starts from 500 rubles.

Algorithm for replacing the clutch drum

For trouble-free use of the chainsaw, regular technical inspection is necessary.

When replacing the clutch drum, only a strictly defined type of structural element of the device should be used for installation. When replacing the drum, the bearings of the structural element should be changed at the same time.

To carry out repair work, you should purchase a special repair kit, which contains a drive sprocket and a bearing. After purchasing a repair kit, you should prepare the materials and tools required for repairs. The main tools that will be required when carrying out repairs are the following:

• a universal key that comes with the chainsaw;
• piston stopper, can be made of plastic or metal;
• special puller for the centrifugal mechanism or clutch drum.

About the Oleo-Mac brand

The Oleo-Mac company was born in the 70s of the last century in Italy and focused on the production of garden equipment and special tools for both professionals and household use. Already in those days, the market was highly competitive and Husqvarna and Stihl were considered hegemons.

However, Oleo-Mac's engineers and managers did an excellent job. In 1992, to improve their position in the global market, Oleo-Mac and EFCO decided to merge. Now both of these companies are part of the Emak holding.

Replacing a sprocket on a chainsaw - how to remove and change it yourself

Gasoline chainsaws, like most other tools, require periodic diagnosis of breakdowns and replacement of worn parts.
A significant part of them are associated with the chainsaw drive sprocket or clutch disc - one of the important elements of all chainsaws without exception. Despite the relative simplicity of its design and the instructions in the operating instructions, every year thousands of inexperienced craftsmen reach a dead end in this matter and waste money on service centers or produce it incorrectly, which further aggravates the problem. That is why we will dwell on this topic and understand the structure, functional features and repair of this working unit of chainsaws.

Chainsaw Oleo-Mac 937 – model description

This Oleo-Mac model is included in the list of the latest developments from the Italian brand. The tool is intended for regular work on removing branches, cutting down trees with trunks of small and medium diameter, as well as clearing bushes.

The Oleo-Mak 937 chainsaw is equipped with a 2-stroke gasoline engine with a power of 1.6 kW and a cylinder capacity of 35.2 cm3. The working cylinder of the model is made of nickel alloy, and the connecting rod and crankshaft are made of hardened steel. The use of materials resistant to corrosion and damage increases the service life of parts in difficult weather conditions

The manufacturer has provided free access to the air filter and muffler of the tool. This greatly simplifies the maintenance and repair of parts in the field.

A high-quality branded set is responsible for sawing wood. For its production, a metal alloy is used, which is resistant to impacts and other mechanical damage. To tension the chain, the Oleo-Mac saw is equipped with a side tensioner, which does not require the use of hand tools to adjust.

Model specifications include:

• The power of the standard internal combustion engine is 2.2 liters. With.;
• tank for filling the fuel mixture - 320 ml;
• possible length of the tire used for work is 30–35 cm;
• standard chain pitch – 3/8 “;
• weight when assembled for work – 4.3 kg.

The light weight of this Oleo-Mac tool gives its owner the opportunity to work at high altitudes. An effective anti-vibration system dampens vibrations of the engine crankshaft, simplifying work with the tool.

Chainsaw drive sprocket device

An asterisk or centrifugal mechanism is a part shaped like a star.
It takes on the engine torque and transmits it to the guide and saw chain. This guarantees the rotation of the cutting set and the sawing process itself. It operates automatically, which depends on the amount of engine speed. The clutch drum can be located both outside the chainsaw and on its inside - under a separate cover. It performs a protective function not only in relation to the material from which the sprocket is made, but also for the operator, who may be injured by it during work. In addition to the function of chain rotation, the saw drive star prevents the occurrence of malfunctions of the motor system in cases where the chain jams or stops rotating.

Classification of chainsaw drive sprockets

The main difference between them is the frequency of replacement and the rate of wear: in the models of the “Pro” series, wear occurs faster and repairs occur more often.

According to the design features, the leading chainsaw sprockets are:

The latter consist of a hub with a stationary crown of a certain number of teeth. Their factory pressing does not allow the crown to be removed separately from the hub. This situation is typical for many Chinese chainsaws, for example, from the Champion brand.

The situation with prefabricated sprockets is simpler: the removable crown is quickly unscrewed from the drum axis, so repairs do not cause any particular difficulties. This option is an advantage of most saws of European origin, for example, Shtil or Husqvarna.

When to change a chainsaw sprocket?

If the chain glues at low speeds, the saw is operated for a long time on the same chain and drive sprocket, and during its inspection defects are identified, its replacement is mandatory.
Externally, the condition of the sprocket is determined by its teeth. They are considered worn out if they:

• there are small chips or grooves from the guide;
• their width is disproportionate to their height;
• the angles between the teeth and cavities are different;
• hub with scoring and other deformations due to lack of lubrication.

What is needed to replace the sprocket on a chainsaw?

The main thing that is required is an understanding of the internal structure of saws and a certain skill: if you are holding this power tool in your hands for the first time, it is better not to experiment with repairs and leave it to more experienced people.
If you are confident in your own technical competence, to replace the sprocket on a chainsaw you will need:

• a new clutch drum or its rim - selected in accordance with the model of a particular chainsaw;
• set of tools for repair.

How to remove a sprocket from a chainsaw: several options for different clutch drum designs

Method for a star with a stationary crown

For this they produce:

• dismantling the protective cover and tire-cutting set;
• stalling of the piston part of the engine;
• disconnecting the clutch from the engine system;
• removing the clutch and centrifugal sprocket from the saw body;
• visual inspection of the sprocket and its toothed part;
• if defects are detected, replace the sprocket with a new clutch drum;
• diagnostics of chainsaw clutch elements for defects - worn centrifugal springs and cams can negatively affect the operation of the sprocket;
• If there are no faults, we proceed to the assembly stage. To do this you need to: remove the stopper;
• pull out the ignition cable;
• screw the stopper to fix it on the motor shaft of the centrifugal mechanism;
• Use a universal key to tighten the clutch in the opposite direction of the chain;
• return the remaining removed parts to their original positions.

Method for a star with a collapsible clutch drum

We should not forget that installing a new chain on a chainsaw bar is one of the reasons to re-equip the saw with a new sprocket. Otherwise, the chain will stretch prematurely or break during operation. Less wear on the clutch drum is achieved by alternately using several chains and periodically servicing its bearing. This mechanism is activated exclusively at idle: when the speed increases, it is not activated. Experts recommend changing it simultaneously with the chain and sprocket and systematically lubricating it with chain oil.

Chainsaw Oleo-Mac 947 – model characteristics

This model from Oleo-Mac stands out for its minimal amount of recycled gas emissions. An improved muffler and proprietary vibration damping system make long-term use of the tool more convenient in difficult operating conditions.

This Oleo-Mac model is equipped with a standard 2-stroke gasoline engine with a cylinder capacity of 45 cm3. A reliable manual starter with an easy start system makes it possible to start the tool at extremely low temperatures.

Model specifications include:

• The power of the standard internal combustion engine is 3.1 liters. With.;
• tank for filling the fuel mixture – 500 ml;
• possible length of the tire used for work is 40–45 cm;
• standard chain pitch – 0.325 “;
• weight when assembled for work – 5.1 kg.

Among the advantages of this Oleo-Mac saw, reliability and high operator safety stand out. The tool is equipped with a long-lasting inertia brake, which is instantly activated when the chain hits hard objects.

How to remove a sprocket from an Oleo Mak chainsaw

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Video Replacing the sprocket on an Oleo Mak chainsaw. channel Useful Tips! ! !

The chainsaw sprocket serves to transmit engine torque through a centrifugal clutch to the saw chain. The sprocket teeth experience heavy loads during operation and therefore gradually wear out. It is not difficult to remove a sprocket from a chainsaw using a special tool, but you can do the job with improvised means.

Typical faults and possible solutions

Design Features and Functions

The chain drive sprocket is functionally combined with the clutch drum, inside of which there are cams compressed by a spring. The design feature is that the engine shaft passes and rotates freely inside the clutch drum. Expanding cams are rigidly fixed at the end of the shaft.

When idling, the spring compresses the cams and they do not touch the drum. As the speed increases, the centrifugal force exceeds the spring stiffness and the cams come into contact with the walls of the drum. The latter begins to rotate.

The teeth of the saw chain mesh with the teeth of the drive sprocket. One of the functions of an automatic centrifugal clutch is to protect the engine when the load on the chain increases beyond the permissible limit. This can occur when the chain gets stuck.

The outer part of the drum is covered by an emergency brake band. When the handle is folded back, the belt is pressed against the drum and slows down its rotation. The effect is the same as when the chain jams.

A feature of all chainsaws is that the drum and clutch cams are attached to the shaft using a nut with a left-hand thread so that the mechanism does not unwind during operation.

Chainsaw Oleo-Mac 925 – tool capabilities

This Oleo-Mac chainsaw is equipped with a reliable gasoline engine with a cylinder capacity of 25.4 cm3. The engine is capable of developing a maximum speed of 12,500 rpm. This makes it possible to use the model not only for garden care, but also for sawing logs for construction.

To cool the motor, the manufacturer has provided an effective forced air circulation system. The vibration suppression system facilitates long-term operation of this Oleo-Mac tool at heights and in hard-to-reach places.

A reliable manual starter is responsible for starting the saw motor. It stands out for its durability and the option of easier engine starting at low temperatures.

Specifications of this Oleo-Mac chainsaw include:

• The power of the standard internal combustion engine is 1.2 liters. With.;
• tank for filling the fuel mixture – 230 ml;
• possible length of the tire used for work is 25–30 cm;
• standard chain pitch – 3/8 “;
• weight when assembled for work – 3 kg.

This model is distinguished by its low noise level during operation. At maximum engine load this figure is 110 dB.

Causes of malfunctions and how to determine the need for replacement

Wear on the drive sprocket teeth can occur for several reasons:

• natural wear and tear along the chain teeth;
• accelerated wear as a result of excessive chain tension or lack of lubrication;
• incorrectly selected chain;
• technological defect.

Metal wear can be determined visually by inspecting the sprocket without removing it from the saw. Dents and chips on the surface should not exceed 0.5 mm.

The need for replacement is determined by increased noise when the chain moves, but this is typical only in the presence of deep potholes. It is difficult to notice shallow wear during operation, but the chain will wear out greatly. When the teeth are broken, the chain may move jerkily, which is especially noticeable during operation.

How much does a sprocket and its replacement cost?

The price of a chainsaw sprocket is highly dependent on the manufacturer and is somewhat lower than the cost of the saw chain. To avoid regular replacement, manufacturers recommend operating the saw with several chains and periodically swapping them. In this case, the wear of the sprocket teeth occurs more evenly.

The cost of replacement in service centers is commensurate with the price of the part itself, so it makes sense to do this work yourself, especially since no adjustments need to be made after this.

Home page » How to Remove a Sprocket From a Chainsaw Video

Related Posts

How to remove the clutch on a chainsaw

clutch drum , which is also the drive sprocket, is a consumable item and requires periodic replacement. The main reason for replacement is: wear of the sprocket teeth with the saw chain. If the drum is monolithic, then during a long operation the chain simply cuts through the sprocket , and the entire drum must be changed. On some chainsaws the clutch drum

has a replaceable crown, which also wears out. In this case, only the crown is changed; the drum, if it is in good condition, remains for further use.

Many saw owners do not think about how to remove the clutch on a chain saw themselves, because they have the opportunity to contact a service center. But this option is not at all possible, for this we are publishing this article in which we will explain step by step how to remove an asterisk

from
a chainsaw .
This operation is not difficult if you have the tools and parts. In the article, for example, all actions are performed using an Echo CS-3500 chainsaw; all operations for replacing the clutch drum for other chainsaws are similar.

• First you need to: Unscrew the universal nut with the bar cover nut and remove the bar and chain.

Repair of chainsaw Oleo-Mac GS-35, 650, 370

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Chainsaws

Today I bought a used Oleo-Mac GS-35-14 chainsaw, when I started it, it seemed that the idle speed was increased, I opened the air filter, there was a thin filter (about 2-3 mm thick) I removed the filter, and there wasn’t much debris there , but not little. I have a 2t moped so it’s always clean there. The question is this: maybe I have some kind of home-made filter or some part of the filter is missing? Or is this normal for chainsaws? These models have a thick (15-20 mm) filter made of foam rubber type material. And under it is a thin white plate of fine cleaning. And the filter consists of 2 parts. It feels like you're missing one part. Shtil has a chain pitch of 180, the length of the bar, and the width of the groove coincide with the Oleo Mak 35 chainsaw. But the chain has 50 links. Does this have something to do with the width of the nose? I don't think it has anything to do with the width of the nose. And it depends on the range of possible center-to-center distances (chain tensioner sprocket-pin) that the chain tensioner allows you to obtain. In any case, Oregon tires suitable for the Oleo-Mac GS-35-14 chainsaw (both with a wide nose and a narrow nose) are offered with a chain with the same number of drive links. Please tell me, when you scroll the chain, it sags, is this normal? Or the chain has worked for a long time and has stretched. The pitch of the sprocket has decreased with wear, and the pitch of the chain has increased with stretching - so it jerks. Can the piston group of the Oleo-Mac GS-35-14 chainsaw wear out due to bad gasoline? Quite simply, bad gasoline is the most common cause of failure of CPG parts. About 85 percent of the cases. You can also add burnt oil and old fuel mixture. The remaining 15 are incorrect proportion of oil, incorrect self-adjustment of the carburetor, etc.

• Maintenance of Oleo Mac 936, 940, 947 chainsaws
• Repair of chainsaw Oleo Mac 937, 941

Oleo-Mac GS-650 chainsaw in operation. No idle speed, average and above average. We made adjustments with the T screw. The speed was always above average. What is the reason? Most often due to air leaks - most often the seals, or in another place. Also, when the carburetor is clogged and there is not enough gasoline. Along the way, you should check the fuel filter and fuel line. How to check the ignition of an Oleo Mak 35 chainsaw? I took out the candle and applied it to the body. There is a spark, but weak. What other way is there? Try the wire directly to the cylinder, without a spark plug; a spark should also be visible, and also felt if you grab it with your hand (only then do not pull the starter too hard). On my saw, the trigger does not come to half position, which is recommended when starting. How to fix? There, the trigger will not be locked half way. There is some kind of latch on the carburetor drive. You can check the operation like this: press the key down, without starting the saw, of course, then return it to the working position and lightly press the gas. If a click is heard, it is precisely the throttle valve that has jumped off the “starting gas”. When the choke is removed by pressing the throttle position regulator, the “half-throttle” mode should be established, and when the choke is removed by pressing the gas lever, the idle mode should be established. A normally operating saw starts up equally easily in any of these two modes. If the Oleo-Mac GS-370 chainsaw has a bar installed on the left, will it be possible to install the one on the right with an additional non-through hole? You first check whether you currently have the correct tire installed or not. Remove the side cover, the one that holds the bar, and the chain. Place the saw on its side with the starter down and, holding the bar with your hand, move it with the tensioner from one extreme point to the other. During this process, visually check whether the holes on the tire are aligned or not, which is very easy to do with a through hole. During this movement, the hole in the tire should not extend beyond the boundaries of the pump outlet. If this is the case, then the second tire shank option is not suitable for you, because its lubrication hole is located much further from the center line of symmetry of the tire. But if in some positions of the tire there is no alignment of the holes, then it makes sense to do the same check of the tire with a different shank. I started the Oleo Mak 35 chainsaw at home, at +25 on choke. Fills the candle. I tried it in the middle position and it also flooded. I reduced the gap to 0.5 mm, as in the manual, checked the spark - weak. Returned the gap to the factory 1 mm. I heated the spark plug contacts until red hot on the gas, quickly screwed them in and in the middle position and with the key pressed, started it on the third pull. It rattled at idle for seven minutes, turned it off. After 25-300 minutes, I started it again, rattled at idle for 5 minutes, then revved it up slightly. Turned it off. After another 20 minutes I started it up, rattled at idle for a few minutes and started sawing. The saw is 2013, it leaks oil at idle (I filled the transmission with 85). At idle you can hear some kind of clanking noise. I drank all the gasoline, tried to start it hot, but I couldn’t pull the cord! The next day I started it in the middle position with the gas button 5-6 times. This is fine? Do not pay attention to the clinking sound - this is the norm for any saw. The clutch weights tap on the cup, the cup is new, clean - it rings like a bell. And upon launch. Usually these saws are not capricious when starting up, whether cold or warm. Try in the lower position of the control key, do not wait for it to start, but simply pull it four times and switch to the middle position - it should start. If the engine is very cold, in the cold, for example, then in the lower position you will have to pull until it starts (Usually 5 times - no more). And their compression is pretty decent - get used to it. On an unstarted Oleo-Mac GS-35-14 chainsaw, lower the key down and raise it to the middle position. And press the gas - you will hear a click. That's it, it jumped off at half throttle. The mechanics there work like this: We lower the key, at this time the air damper closes, and the throttle opens a third to half of its full position. If the key is raised to the middle position, the air damper will open, but the throttle will remain slightly open. If you press the gas and release, the throttle will jump off the stop and close. Use a primer if desired and necessary for any engine condition. It is not possible to pump it - it sucks gasoline out of the tank through the carburetor and returns it back. The maximum that will happen is a slightly increased pressure in the fuel tank if the drainage does not work “outward”. How to maintain the Oleo-Mac GS-650 chainsaw? I looked at the instructions - there is a need to climb into it almost every day. I’m at the dacha, and it looks like there will be significant frosts starting on Monday. I think something needs to be done with her. Would this option work: start it (I haven’t used it for two months), then drain everything, then start it again, clean it, loosen the tire, lubricate the chain, maybe remove the filters and put it in cold conditions? I clean and disassemble the saw after each use, well, I take off the chain, remove the bar, clean everything with a brush, and wipe it with a rag. The reason is banal, there is nowhere to store it at the dacha, you have to take it home, but its condition is appropriate. As for maintenance: I correct the chain with a file, regularly, not every time, but often enough, I spray the sprocket with lubricant. I simply vacuumed the filter into the cover itself, where the motor climbed several times. I noticed that my plastic “winter-summer” damper was set to winter mode, so I moved it. Like all my service. Now I rarely use it, but once this summer it worked well, sawing a lot of slabs for firewood in one day. I would like to clarify about the Oleo-Mac GS-370 chainsaw: 1. the real usefulness of the multifunction switch on the GS44. 2. the ability to use Power sharp on it (including the availability of appropriate circuits for it). 3. And the performance of the Power sharp chain compared to the usual Oregon one of the corresponding standard size. 1. Saws whose model starts with GS are newer. Cleaner engines, softer suspension, etc. In comparison with the previous model range, they really win in many ways. But they are still only recently in operation, there are very few statistics. According to reviews, everything is fine, users like it. 2. The main problem may not be with the chains; coiled chains can be made of any size from 3 links (less than 3 will simply be problematic to connect into a ring) to infinity, but the availability of tires with a corresponding shank. 3. The performance of Power sharp chains should be lower, since the loss of torque to overcome friction forces is increased; chains of this type have a much larger surface area directly sliding along the wood. In addition, the durability of such chains is lower compared to conventional ones. Due to the design features, Power sharp chains can withstand fewer sharpenings. Chains are usually sharpened once or twice a year; chains last for ten years. PS in this case, that’s it. The owner himself does not need to buy sharpening devices or tinker with it - he snaps the device onto the tire, presses it, removes it, and continues drinking. And the number of sharpenings of one chain is such a thing. And on ordinary chains it happens that in order to correct it, you need to remove 0.1 - 0.2 along the length with one movement of the file, but sometimes the dullness is so dull that the tooth “ends” after just a couple of sharpenings. And on PS such a situation is not excluded. But no one can yet say how many sharpenings this chain will withstand during normal use on clean wood.

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